Sometimes you just have to throw in the towel…

Mountains to XiLinHaote

Okay, so I’m trying to speed through the mountains with 4 non functioning cog wheels. I figure, “oh, we will just cut straight West and travel on these very small country roads (they are the thin red lines on a China Road Atlas).”

Well…sh*t! We encountered a mountain that took us 2 hours to push our bikes up. We found out from the workers on the mountain, installing sand bags that the road is for tour buses only. That’s why we weren’t allowed to ride down the other side – yeah, talk about a bummer!!!! We got loaded into a tour bus and driven down the other side of the mountain.

I’m still not sure where we were, or how we got there…but somewhere smack dab in the mountains between XiLinHaoTe and LinXin.

Needless to say, that’s the 3rd and final time (maybe 😉 )through that mountain range.

We’ve hit the Inner Mongolian Plateau (which is my second time). Jason has asked, “how much more of this up and down?!?!” We had a head wind to boot one day and now he understands what I was facing in Hulun Buir. He tells me what hurts and what he hates…and I COMPLETELY 110% understand…I’ve been there…over and over again.

I’m praying for overcast skies and a tailwind tomorrow to get us to the Mongolian border in 2 days. I wanted to be in Mongolia 2 weeks ago…and when I didn’t forsee that a month ago- I said August 1…well, I’m behind.

It’s nice to have a partner right now…it keeps my sanity at points, especially when every thing seems to be breaking.

I’ve added a Nikon Coolpix 6000 to my equipment, that has really captured some great moments that I miss when I can’t pull out the big guy.   I also sold a 50mm prime for a 300mm prime.

Expect my next post from Ulanbatar in 8 days.

Back On the Road

This time I have company, my “teammate” Jason Yen. He is riding his handbuilt frame he made at UBI in Oregon. It’s a real beaut’.

I had my front fork replaced in Chifeng and my chain.

We left Chifeng on Saturday in blazing heat. Before leaving, my derailer begin to have problems. We had about 10 people from Chifeng riding with us, which Jason and I don’t really like…but that’s okay. They meant well.

Jason and I continued on after lunch together and met up with Qi Ge at our next town. We are headed to some “Mongolian Festival”…I don’t know…

The next morning, “Mr. Know it All” rode along with us. He ended up calling his cronies to pick him up in an SUV. Besides being a Know it All (as we had met him at that bike shop in Chifeng) he is also a fake and a braggert. On top of this, he orders me around. He got in Jason’s way when Jason tried to buy us a snack. He orders me to eat and eat until I’m about to die. We take a rest at the police dorms (where he use to work) and then doesn’t want to ride because it’s 34C outside…so now he is a baby too. I don’t like this man AT ALL.

His cronies make fun of him because a woman can ride harder and better than him. He will have to live with that shame.

I say I’m leaving…either way. We head out. Jason and I arrive at the next city without them and we find a bingguan…too late…Mr Know it All orders us to stay at his house…with no shower…and no AC…I have to sleep on the floor in my underwear to try and stay cool. No fan…you would think that a man that carries around a Leica digital camera and drives a Toyota RAV4 could splurge for a fan or even AC.

The next day he takes us to a joke of a repair shop and I finally put my foot down and I say I’ve had enough. Jason and I try to make adjustments and I AM NOT going to the festival…I’m fed up. We load up after Lotus arrives, and it’s a heartfelt goodbye.

We hit mountains for 3 days, now the Inner Mongolian Plateau.

It took us 2 hours to walk our bikes up a mountain – it was no joke. I’ve ridden 500 km, moutains, and the plateau with 3-4 useless cog wheels. There is nowhere for repairs.

My pants won’t fit because my thighs are now crazy big.

Broke:
-iPod
-fake GShock watch (my sweat flooded it after 2 days)

We camped the night before last…went 3 days of riding without showers – I was rank.

Today is a rest day in Xilinhot.

We should be at the Mongolian border in 3 days max.

2 Week Recharge and then off to Mongolia (be sure to use the 110 and not the 220)

Jason has been updating this for me, but this is yours truly.

Well, after the awful fiasco in Xin’BaErHeYouQi around Hulun Buir, I took a train from Wulanhaote to Chifeng.

What happened that was so awful?  I’ll skim the surface for you.  I met 3 young men, ehem, let me rephrase, I met 2 young men and 1 monster.  After treating me to dinner I found myself having the monster “help” me to find a place to sleep for the evening.  I was locked in a room for 3 hours knowing that his intention was rape and possibly steal my belongings.  After 3 hours of me pleading and crying for release and him repeatedly telling me he would kill me – I got away.

The scream I let out still doesn’t even sound like my voice.  The next 5 minutes are a haze.

2 nights later I stayed on a Mongolia “Dude Ranch”.  I needed that.  These people gave me some faith in humanity.  The 3 people were “Mongolian” but I have realized there is a difference between ethnic lineage of Mongolian and those that live culturally as Mongolian.  Mongolians LOVE to drink…they LOVE to sing…they LOVE Americans.

There was a boy on the ranch – “Bao’tur”.  He made me very nervous – even behind his silver reflector aviator sunglasses – I could see that he was one of the most beautiful boys I have ever seen.  His delicate and such unique face framed by soft curled dyed brownish hair.  It was not a sexual attraction nervousness, let me say that, but the fact that he was BEAUTIFUL.  Jason says, “that guy looks weird” – you may think that too – but this boy was beautiful.

When I was practicing English with “Bao’tur”, “But’tur”, “Nancy”, and “Jake” – Bao’turs’ voice would go very high pitch and awkward sounding.  He made up for this silliness by the his natural appearance riding the horses – with no saddle.

I slept in my first yurt.  It was a cement one, a permanent one.

I returned to my Chinese “family” in ChiFeng last Saturday.  After another “boy” tried to scam me and who knows what else at the train station in Wulanhaote.  Luckily I stopped that one before there even was the option.

Greeted at the train station at 5:30 am by my dear friend and “sister” Lotus.  Captain was there too.  It was so wonderful to see familiar faces and feel true, genuine love, from friends and family.  While in Chifeng, I was on the radio station speaking Chinese, danced for a large group of Eighth Graders, and had “little rain drop” (Lotus’ dear daughter) tell me my arms are like peaches.  I have hairy arms…you should see my legs!!!!

After spending a relaxing, yet hot, weekend in Chifeng, I arrived in Shanghai Monday night.  I’ve never been one to run to the Gate and throw my arms around anyone.  But I shuffled (flip flops) past everyone and ran into Jason’s arms.  Yes.  Like a movie.  My luggage being one very dirty tanktop and pants and a load of Inner Mongolian Milk candy and Cheese.  Gifts.  Dirty clothes and candy.

I have officially hit “Dirt Bag” status – and so proud of it.  People are amazed by my tan lines.  I’ve been told I look like a Chinese farmer and the man next to me on the plane kept looking at my arms and then his.  He was a little corn’fused.

On July 1st, my final riding day of NorthEast China – I hit 5000km.  If you do the math, I did this in 2 months – with more than plenty rest days.  I plan to do the next 2 months, 6000km.  This will be Mongolia.

Jason will be joining me for Mongolia – but don’t worry – I still plan to make a record amount of solo kilometers through China.  I guarantee that.

While in Shanghai, I will be eating NOT Chinese food, though I have had 2 Chinese lunches.  I lied.  Let me rephrase…I will not be eating Chinese food when we can afford not too.  Still have got to reserve money.  The attempted rape drained 1000kuai out of my account really fast.  Taxi ride to next town and an air conditioned hotel.

I’ve got a great paying job this week and that will more than definitely put my finances back to where they were before I started.

One massage thus far, as I hope to regain feeling in my left middle finger.  I lost feeling and it’s completely numb – during the first week of my ride.  Pinched nerves?

I’m going to go through some photos and maybe put a couple up here…I know you are dying to see some.

Recently, I’ve had correspondance with your recent comment’or Edward Genochio and new correspondance from Evan Villarrubia, Portrait of an LBX www.portraitofanlbx.com

Ed and I share a lot of similar stories and he’s been a great guy to talk with when I’m feeling beat the hell up.

Evan and his cycling companion are still on the road in China.  I got a really nice email from him giving me props for doing this.  He said that he and his buddies have often discussed how difficult this would be for a woman…well, I’m doing it.  And to hell with that monster – I will NOT let any person ruin this for me.

I’ll keep you all up to date

I would love to hear from you!