I’ve thought this before…

…but never posted it.

Months back, who knows where or when, I took a look at my bags. Shit spilling out everywhere, random dirty socks keeping a pit stained shirt company, an unwashed spoon with smears of dried peanut butter chillin’ on some dirty ass surface, my “delicates” flipped inside out for some air cleaning, wads of crumpled CLEAN (probably stolen from noodle joint) toilet paper, towels/wash cloths just hanging from the “cleanest” place, and maps just thrown out everywhere.

I always feel like there is a direct correlation between the state of a cyclist’s mind/heart and the condition of their bags and the contents they contain – or don’t contain.

Waking up this morning, I looked at the corner of this room. I have my entire life strewn about, taking up about 1 meter by 2. Jesus Christ Ellen, pull your shit together. I feel like I can’t find anything, left dirty clothes sitting in a pan of water over night because I decided to pass out with my migraine rather than wash them. And there is that damn dirty peanut butter knife, next to my cooking pot with dried coffee in the bottom. I have no effin clue where my spoon is. Maybe I used it for the crack last night…

Tomorrow, I’m pulling my bike up here and doing some “housecleaning”. Pack those panniers the way they are supposed to be packed/organized and put them on Nelly.

December 3 2011 – Mori to LaoQiTai Zhen

Previous post said I had made it to Jimsar, that was incorrect

No photos from the ride today, but this is what it looked like…

…or at least my recollection of it.

I got off the main road early in the day and on a back road through villages. One dude saw me and started shouting Chinese at me and I just lift up my sunglasses and say, “Hey, I don’t understand what you are saying, I’m a foreigner.”

He looks confused.

When I finally made it to the town (a steady, small incline all day), I passed a young Uyghur man selling fruits and he noticed what I was. “Look there is a foreigner.”

It’s rare in the winter to get to hear this. Sometimes I need to be reminded, there are too many days that pass where I feel myself becoming native. Speaking of…

I’m looking for zhusu off the main street, where it’s usually cheaper and I find a little place.

Careful climbing the 3 flights of steps outside, taking note not to slip on the fresh 2cm of snow. (Sorry Americans, I love metric.)

I open the door and look around. Nosey around. Hearing someone in the bathroom.

“Hello? I need accommodation, you have don’t have, and it’s one person.”

Laobanniang (boss lady) starts going on and on and on from the bathroom. Friendly but a little too fast, I understand it but she needs to see my big ol’ white face. There’s nothing like getting the, “foreigners can’t stay here” after making yourself at home.

I begin laughing, “a, laobanniang, hahaha, I’m a foreigner so my Chinese isn’t so good.”

She exits the bathroom laughing too and we take care of the business that needs to be taken care of.

My bike is locked in their cage outside and I make myself at home, in my little hole, and drain the battery on my netbook watching a movie.

I get the visit from the local police. The usual. The photos. The questions of where are coming from where are you going. Takes up a good 20 minutes of my PRECIOUS time of staring at the walls.

When I go out to look for dinner, unsuccessful, there is about 10cm of fresh snow.

It’s going to instant noodles and a Sprite for dinner.

Yo, Ellen, how do you pass the time in those holes you live in, you asked?

It usually goes in this order.

Test the firmness of the board I’ll be sleeping on. Firm…my lady hips love that. Luckily, I’m mostly a stomach sleeper.

A look at the pillowcase (towel) and maybe even take a few sniffs. You’ll learn how to analyze how many oily heads have laid to rest there. And, by all means, I’m probably rockin’ as hard as the best.

I’ll take a glance in the corners and even the space between the bed and the wall. I don’t know why I do this, but I do, and I’m usually grossed out.

Then check out the outlets and electrical cords, to see if I’m going to be burning to my death in the middle of the night.

Of course, then to the tv. Sometimes the remote is wrapped in plastic, but not usually, and I try to avoid the brown/black sticky stuff that it’s been decorated with. Usually the tv doesn’t work or I get scramble vision of one channel.

Find my kaishui, pour a cup of hot water and put on my slippers. Sometimes they are too small, sometimes fried with cigarette burn holes. Speaking of cigarettes, there’s usually an old “Red Bull” can cut open for the ashtray.

Then, well, I enjoy looking at the walls. Usually they have a bit of character, much more than the ceilings do. The curtains are generally a nice thing to ponder over as well. It can be interesting to see how they have been hung, installed, or just the general pattern and choice of fabrics.

The place tonight, I will have neighbors and I can hear the television. It’s not at full volume, which is a rare case here in China. They seem to be well behaved local men and I walk by their room I can see the colored light flickering over their weary faces.

This is how we Chinese roll!

And there may be a video of me dancing with shorty muffin to my left too…maybe…

We started with drinking games at 3pm and dancing begins at around 6. Aiya! I’m only half finished with my holiday celebrating obligations.

What I should do when I finish this tour is find a nice AA program. Just kidding, or…am I?

GanBei!!!

Self Portrait from August 2011, Amdo/Kham Tibet

The moment, I knew, it was going to be a very long and cold winter. Watching snow flurries fall to the ground during the first week of August, as we ride from the Tibetans we had spent the night with.

Sunrise near Amnematchen (Amdo/Kham Tibet). One of the most beautiful mornings so far.

The evening before, sleeping with the nomads, we had been shoved in a corner together. I was in the worst pain of my life from my stomach problems and got no sleep, Brandon told me he didn’t sleep at all either.

When getting ready for bed, the Tibetan girl and I were giggling with each other for about an hour. There was a language barrier and we would just communicate with laughter and giggles. We were watching each other, curious of the other. One of us would do something, and catch the eyes of the other, and we would both burst out in laughter. Old cranky pants that I was sharing my “personal space” with was probably confirming in his head that I’d lost my mind.

That girl was absolutely beautiful and I have about 3 dozen photos of her. I can still hear her laughter and giggles, while adding a white powder/flour to her traditional Tibetan hat. What I would do to visit her again…………………..well, it’s not that far away?

December 2nd 2011 – Mario Bros to Mori

I woke up to a quite cold and dimly lit room. Still, complete silence except for the faint sound of ice cracking in the trees in the back.

Without getting out of bed to look out the window, I can make a weather assessment. Being raised in the Blue Ridge/Appalachia Mountains, I can already tell what it’s like outside by the light coming through the window and the silence with the faint “crack”.

I pack up, eat the remainder of the bread, and drink the last bit of hot water (“kai shui”) in my instant sugar coffee. Again, it’s great staying in places like this because it’s super fast and easy to pack up in the am.

I vow to not take anymore photos with my point and shoot (quit being lazy) unless they are snapshots of me suffering in the elements or I have no option because of situation (i.e. police). Only for video, from now on, Jan 20, 2011.

It’s going to be a very white and cold ride today.

As I exit the building, I see Mario and Luigi taking care of the daily chores. Cow feeding and milking. Yep, I think Mario and Luigi may be a couple. This, I find, AWESOME. They get extra thanks and smiles from me…world love, dudes.

It’s about 10 am’ish. It’s foggy – frozen fog. Not too bad with a few kilometer visibility ahead. Once I get going, I’ll warm up and it won’t be too much of a problem.

10:42 am

The trees all have silver icicles on the tips of their limbs. I am doing okay at this point and enjoy passing the lone cowboy on his horse and my eyes dashing around the landscape. There still seems to be a bit of an incline, or my eyes are just giving me that “false” appearance. (I hate it when I have a false flat and barely pushing 15km, way to make me feel like a baby.)

Little girl’s potty break, although I didn’t use the structure for privacy. I nearly didn’t make it off the saddle in time. (Nothing like wet cycling shorts and an additional odor to add the lovely potpourri I wear around). You can gawk at this if you want, but any one that rides, especially women…one second off the saddle and that’s when it hits with full force.

When there is no traffic, I really just take care of business anywhere. Ladies, don’t be shy when nature calls. Tuck the head down and keep your face from traffic to keep the attention off of the fact that you aren’t “physically” a man. I really have lost any sense of shame. What happened? I guess, you just quit giving a damn and morphed into a true womanimal.

12:30, losing visibility. It only gets worse and worse from this moment on.

Boys get ice beards girls get ice braids. (How fitting for the nickname I picked up years ago, “Ice Princess”)

The balaclava got used after this, and I’m not posting a photo of that because I look like a monster.

I eventually end the day on about 3 meter visibility. Turning on my red blinky because of the fear of getting taken out by a car.

It’s an early day to Mori.

I finally have my gear loaded on my bike so if I take the back rack bag off, I can carry the bike fully loaded up stairs. Yes, I’m a g.d. beast. Well, beastly skills up 3 EXTREMELY LONG and narrow flight of stairs, nearly breaks my neck. I regained my balance before taking an awesome tumble down steps with bike in hands. (Mental note: save beast skills for at least a meter wide staircase, without white sheets covering the carpet, and a larger landings…and just not so many.) Christ! Laziness and short cuts are going to be the death of me. There was a naughty influence with me this summer and some bad habits have stuck.

(The beastly womanimal needs some sleep as I had a delightful 4 hours last night. Jan. 23, 2011)

Mix Tape

I put together a mix a few days ago of the songs that get a lot of repeat time on the iPod. Some bring back vivid memories of mountain passes, camp, and solitude.

[8tracks width=”400″ height=”400″ playops=”” url=”http://8tracks.com/mixes/532872″]

Dinner, my only meal that day, in U-Tsang, Tibet (near Nima, September 2011)

It was a long day, but every day in Tibet was a glorious long day – and this would prove to be a very long night.

When I finally found an area where I could get some wind shelter, I pushed the bike off road and up towards some rocks jutting from the ground. Taking notice of the Yak foot prints, I was aware I could have some friendly visitors in the morning. I’m not worried, I’ve woken a few times with the clomping and the heavy breathing less than a meter from my tent. Hell, I’ve had a dozen of dogs howling and barking next to my tent. No, I’m not hardcore – I’m stupid.

Anyhow, I push the bike towards the wall of stone and begin to clear some stones out of the most level area of the ground. I hate slipping through the night, but I can tell I’m going to be rolling down…a little.

I haven’t eat at all. I’m now camping at +4900m, highest camp so far, and I’ve lost my appetite. I’ve been at high altitude for over 2 weeks now and I’m noticing some things changing. My ears are ringing, my feet and hands are beginning to take on a purplish hue, and inability to sleep.

Before I set up camp, I try to figure out how and what I’m going to eat. I have no alcohol for my stove. I’ve got chilled water and I know that if I let my instant noodles (pangmian) soak long enough, it will be close to noodle soup. I also dig out my can of “fried sardines with black beans”. This can was meant to be split, as they are super salty.

Wedging the bag in a Pipa (the rodent that lives in Tibet) hole, I pour my water in to let soak while setting up camp.

This is the night my tent pole splinters. Yep. Again, not a peep from my mouth except in my mind I “say” – “oh shit”. The wind can get crazy up here at night and I just pray it doesn’t blow down.

I nestle into my home for the night and begin my meal fit for Kings.

The fish is too salty. I can only take half the can before I walk a half a km down the hill and chuck it far enough in hopes to keep any wild animals away. (I’m constantly warned of wolves from people, but have yet to have an encounter.)

I fall in and out of sleep throughout the night. As soon as the wind picks up, I listen for more cracking of the pole. Luckily, it is still standing in the morning. Needless to say, at this point, the tent is holding up a lot better than I.

9am blazing sun

Why you should always have an extra set of Passport photos.

I’d be leaving Urumqi this week if I had had the photos.

Because of the eye infection and surgery, I was unable to get current photos. Which in turn, has set everything back by 2 weeks. Now, because of Chinese New Year/Spring Festival, the country shuts down for 7 days. Anything that is in process gets to sit in an empty office for a week.

Right now, I’m about to lose my sanity. It’s draining my funds and every morning I ask myself what the hell am I doing here…again!

Please…please…please please please…I want my Passport/Visa…pretty pretty pretty paaaAAAAaaalleleeeeeeeeeeeeese.

I would love to hear from you!