December 3 2011 – Mori to LaoQiTai Zhen

Previous post said I had made it to Jimsar, that was incorrect

No photos from the ride today, but this is what it looked like…

…or at least my recollection of it.

I got off the main road early in the day and on a back road through villages. One dude saw me and started shouting Chinese at me and I just lift up my sunglasses and say, “Hey, I don’t understand what you are saying, I’m a foreigner.”

He looks confused.

When I finally made it to the town (a steady, small incline all day), I passed a young Uyghur man selling fruits and he noticed what I was. “Look there is a foreigner.”

It’s rare in the winter to get to hear this. Sometimes I need to be reminded, there are too many days that pass where I feel myself becoming native. Speaking of…

I’m looking for zhusu off the main street, where it’s usually cheaper and I find a little place.

Careful climbing the 3 flights of steps outside, taking note not to slip on the fresh 2cm of snow. (Sorry Americans, I love metric.)

I open the door and look around. Nosey around. Hearing someone in the bathroom.

“Hello? I need accommodation, you have don’t have, and it’s one person.”

Laobanniang (boss lady) starts going on and on and on from the bathroom. Friendly but a little too fast, I understand it but she needs to see my big ol’ white face. There’s nothing like getting the, “foreigners can’t stay here” after making yourself at home.

I begin laughing, “a, laobanniang, hahaha, I’m a foreigner so my Chinese isn’t so good.”

She exits the bathroom laughing too and we take care of the business that needs to be taken care of.

My bike is locked in their cage outside and I make myself at home, in my little hole, and drain the battery on my netbook watching a movie.

I get the visit from the local police. The usual. The photos. The questions of where are coming from where are you going. Takes up a good 20 minutes of my PRECIOUS time of staring at the walls.

When I go out to look for dinner, unsuccessful, there is about 10cm of fresh snow.

It’s going to instant noodles and a Sprite for dinner.

Yo, Ellen, how do you pass the time in those holes you live in, you asked?

It usually goes in this order.

Test the firmness of the board I’ll be sleeping on. Firm…my lady hips love that. Luckily, I’m mostly a stomach sleeper.

A look at the pillowcase (towel) and maybe even take a few sniffs. You’ll learn how to analyze how many oily heads have laid to rest there. And, by all means, I’m probably rockin’ as hard as the best.

I’ll take a glance in the corners and even the space between the bed and the wall. I don’t know why I do this, but I do, and I’m usually grossed out.

Then check out the outlets and electrical cords, to see if I’m going to be burning to my death in the middle of the night.

Of course, then to the tv. Sometimes the remote is wrapped in plastic, but not usually, and I try to avoid the brown/black sticky stuff that it’s been decorated with. Usually the tv doesn’t work or I get scramble vision of one channel.

Find my kaishui, pour a cup of hot water and put on my slippers. Sometimes they are too small, sometimes fried with cigarette burn holes. Speaking of cigarettes, there’s usually an old “Red Bull” can cut open for the ashtray.

Then, well, I enjoy looking at the walls. Usually they have a bit of character, much more than the ceilings do. The curtains are generally a nice thing to ponder over as well. It can be interesting to see how they have been hung, installed, or just the general pattern and choice of fabrics.

The place tonight, I will have neighbors and I can hear the television. It’s not at full volume, which is a rare case here in China. They seem to be well behaved local men and I walk by their room I can see the colored light flickering over their weary faces.

This is how we Chinese roll!

And there may be a video of me dancing with shorty muffin to my left too…maybe…

We started with drinking games at 3pm and dancing begins at around 6. Aiya! I’m only half finished with my holiday celebrating obligations.

What I should do when I finish this tour is find a nice AA program. Just kidding, or…am I?

GanBei!!!

Self Portrait from August 2011, Amdo/Kham Tibet

The moment, I knew, it was going to be a very long and cold winter. Watching snow flurries fall to the ground during the first week of August, as we ride from the Tibetans we had spent the night with.

Sunrise near Amnematchen (Amdo/Kham Tibet). One of the most beautiful mornings so far.

The evening before, sleeping with the nomads, we had been shoved in a corner together. I was in the worst pain of my life from my stomach problems and got no sleep, Brandon told me he didn’t sleep at all either.

When getting ready for bed, the Tibetan girl and I were giggling with each other for about an hour. There was a language barrier and we would just communicate with laughter and giggles. We were watching each other, curious of the other. One of us would do something, and catch the eyes of the other, and we would both burst out in laughter. Old cranky pants that I was sharing my “personal space” with was probably confirming in his head that I’d lost my mind.

That girl was absolutely beautiful and I have about 3 dozen photos of her. I can still hear her laughter and giggles, while adding a white powder/flour to her traditional Tibetan hat. What I would do to visit her again…………………..well, it’s not that far away?

December 2nd 2011 – Mario Bros to Mori

I woke up to a quite cold and dimly lit room. Still, complete silence except for the faint sound of ice cracking in the trees in the back.

Without getting out of bed to look out the window, I can make a weather assessment. Being raised in the Blue Ridge/Appalachia Mountains, I can already tell what it’s like outside by the light coming through the window and the silence with the faint “crack”.

I pack up, eat the remainder of the bread, and drink the last bit of hot water (“kai shui”) in my instant sugar coffee. Again, it’s great staying in places like this because it’s super fast and easy to pack up in the am.

I vow to not take anymore photos with my point and shoot (quit being lazy) unless they are snapshots of me suffering in the elements or I have no option because of situation (i.e. police). Only for video, from now on, Jan 20, 2011.

It’s going to be a very white and cold ride today.

As I exit the building, I see Mario and Luigi taking care of the daily chores. Cow feeding and milking. Yep, I think Mario and Luigi may be a couple. This, I find, AWESOME. They get extra thanks and smiles from me…world love, dudes.

It’s about 10 am’ish. It’s foggy – frozen fog. Not too bad with a few kilometer visibility ahead. Once I get going, I’ll warm up and it won’t be too much of a problem.

10:42 am

The trees all have silver icicles on the tips of their limbs. I am doing okay at this point and enjoy passing the lone cowboy on his horse and my eyes dashing around the landscape. There still seems to be a bit of an incline, or my eyes are just giving me that “false” appearance. (I hate it when I have a false flat and barely pushing 15km, way to make me feel like a baby.)

Little girl’s potty break, although I didn’t use the structure for privacy. I nearly didn’t make it off the saddle in time. (Nothing like wet cycling shorts and an additional odor to add the lovely potpourri I wear around). You can gawk at this if you want, but any one that rides, especially women…one second off the saddle and that’s when it hits with full force.

When there is no traffic, I really just take care of business anywhere. Ladies, don’t be shy when nature calls. Tuck the head down and keep your face from traffic to keep the attention off of the fact that you aren’t “physically” a man. I really have lost any sense of shame. What happened? I guess, you just quit giving a damn and morphed into a true womanimal.

12:30, losing visibility. It only gets worse and worse from this moment on.

Boys get ice beards girls get ice braids. (How fitting for the nickname I picked up years ago, “Ice Princess”)

The balaclava got used after this, and I’m not posting a photo of that because I look like a monster.

I eventually end the day on about 3 meter visibility. Turning on my red blinky because of the fear of getting taken out by a car.

It’s an early day to Mori.

I finally have my gear loaded on my bike so if I take the back rack bag off, I can carry the bike fully loaded up stairs. Yes, I’m a g.d. beast. Well, beastly skills up 3 EXTREMELY LONG and narrow flight of stairs, nearly breaks my neck. I regained my balance before taking an awesome tumble down steps with bike in hands. (Mental note: save beast skills for at least a meter wide staircase, without white sheets covering the carpet, and a larger landings…and just not so many.) Christ! Laziness and short cuts are going to be the death of me. There was a naughty influence with me this summer and some bad habits have stuck.

(The beastly womanimal needs some sleep as I had a delightful 4 hours last night. Jan. 23, 2011)

Mix Tape

I put together a mix a few days ago of the songs that get a lot of repeat time on the iPod. Some bring back vivid memories of mountain passes, camp, and solitude.

[8tracks width=”400″ height=”400″ playops=”” url=”http://8tracks.com/mixes/532872″]

Dinner, my only meal that day, in U-Tsang, Tibet (near Nima, September 2011)

It was a long day, but every day in Tibet was a glorious long day – and this would prove to be a very long night.

When I finally found an area where I could get some wind shelter, I pushed the bike off road and up towards some rocks jutting from the ground. Taking notice of the Yak foot prints, I was aware I could have some friendly visitors in the morning. I’m not worried, I’ve woken a few times with the clomping and the heavy breathing less than a meter from my tent. Hell, I’ve had a dozen of dogs howling and barking next to my tent. No, I’m not hardcore – I’m stupid.

Anyhow, I push the bike towards the wall of stone and begin to clear some stones out of the most level area of the ground. I hate slipping through the night, but I can tell I’m going to be rolling down…a little.

I haven’t eat at all. I’m now camping at +4900m, highest camp so far, and I’ve lost my appetite. I’ve been at high altitude for over 2 weeks now and I’m noticing some things changing. My ears are ringing, my feet and hands are beginning to take on a purplish hue, and inability to sleep.

Before I set up camp, I try to figure out how and what I’m going to eat. I have no alcohol for my stove. I’ve got chilled water and I know that if I let my instant noodles (pangmian) soak long enough, it will be close to noodle soup. I also dig out my can of “fried sardines with black beans”. This can was meant to be split, as they are super salty.

Wedging the bag in a Pipa (the rodent that lives in Tibet) hole, I pour my water in to let soak while setting up camp.

This is the night my tent pole splinters. Yep. Again, not a peep from my mouth except in my mind I “say” – “oh shit”. The wind can get crazy up here at night and I just pray it doesn’t blow down.

I nestle into my home for the night and begin my meal fit for Kings.

The fish is too salty. I can only take half the can before I walk a half a km down the hill and chuck it far enough in hopes to keep any wild animals away. (I’m constantly warned of wolves from people, but have yet to have an encounter.)

I fall in and out of sleep throughout the night. As soon as the wind picks up, I listen for more cracking of the pole. Luckily, it is still standing in the morning. Needless to say, at this point, the tent is holding up a lot better than I.

9am blazing sun

Why you should always have an extra set of Passport photos.

I’d be leaving Urumqi this week if I had had the photos.

Because of the eye infection and surgery, I was unable to get current photos. Which in turn, has set everything back by 2 weeks. Now, because of Chinese New Year/Spring Festival, the country shuts down for 7 days. Anything that is in process gets to sit in an empty office for a week.

Right now, I’m about to lose my sanity. It’s draining my funds and every morning I ask myself what the hell am I doing here…again!

Please…please…please please please…I want my Passport/Visa…pretty pretty pretty paaaAAAAaaalleleeeeeeeeeeeeese.

“I can’t BELIEVE he is dating her, she doesn’t even brush her hair!”

Recently, a young girl posted a Hate video on YouTube asking for the boycotting of Girl Scout Cookies because they allowed transgender girls in troops. Well, it’s been bringing a lot of memories to mind – of girl bullies. Held up in Urumqi, I’ve got some time to think about stuff, and then write it – to you.

There are times, when I realize that I’ve broken past gender stereotypes. In my lifestyle and friends, it’s really not all that common. Not a lot of skirts, pink, shopping, etc. Although, I love a good pedicure and I already miss my RED lipstick and violet eyeliner.


“Tomboy”

It was a label I carried all through childhood and into early college. I never thought too much about it but I knew that some say this without the best intentions. But whatever, I wore the label – who cares?

Growing up, most of my friends were boys. I was the only girl in my neighborhood. I could climb trees as good as them, fight like the rest of them (defending my little brother), start a fire as fast as them. Most of the time, I was just accepted into the boyhood games.

Except, when we played “Army” or “War”. I was always the Nurse. I hated being the nurse. Why? I had to stay behind in our fort and wait for an injured. BORING!!!!!!!

When we played “Ninja”, I always had to be the “Pink Ninja” – gross.

My best friend growing up was Laura. The school system kept us separated from the same classrooms because we were trouble when you got us together. You couldn’t keep us apart for long. We had dance classes and Girl Scouts together, and spent every weekend together – alternating from one home to the next.

We may have played Barbies or Dolls…maybe…once or twice? Mostly it was cooking something with our moms, or playing outside, harassing our little brothers, or when Nintendo came out – Paperboy! I was accepted into her family, and she into ours.

Now, don’t get me wrong…I had quite a collection of Barbies, doll houses, the whole thing. I played with them. It was usually alone when I got bored of being the only girl in the neighborhood. I’d retreat to my room and dress them up and make up (HILARIOUS in retrospect) situations.

If you looked in my closet, it was mostly jeans and tee shirts. Perhaps a couple of dresses my mom made – but they were just uncomfortable. When I did wear them, it just made me stand out more…I actually felt like I got more negative attention. The neighborhood boys would tease or joke me because it was like I was playing dress up. I always walked home from school up into high school, so pants were always the best option.

Luckily, I was a strong and independent little girl – thanks mom! But we all had awkward adolescent years, looking for that sense of belonging.

So yeah, Tomboy, that was me.

In 8th grade, in an attempt to “fit in” I tried out, and was accepted, for the 8th grade football cheerleader squad. Ha!

First, I got in trouble for taking the hem out of my skirt so it would be longer.

Second, I got reprimanded for not shaking my butt enough.

Third, they would joke me about how you can hear me over everyone else. Yeah, I didn’t mime it like my short skirted, booty shaking comrades did.

Middle school, everything began to change. I knew I wasn’t getting invited to the parties, especially not the make out parties. We all got to hear about them the next week. What a great way to make insecure little kids feel even more insecure.

My first “boyfriend” was in 8th grade. This is too funny.

We had grown up together and played on the same little league team since I could remember. Basically, just pretty damn good pals.

Well, he was the captain of the 8th grade football team and we started “dating”. I mean, holding hands and talking on the phone for hours every night.

Let me explain to you what I looked like in 8th grade. It was 1993…we were listening to Pearl Jam’s “Ten” and Nirvana’s “Nevermind” was getting played ALL THE TIME – but I was more of a “Bleach” fan. I had long straight hair, wore my father’s flannels, jeans with holes in the knees, and Birkenstocks or Chuck Taylors.

Basically my boyfriend and I dressed the exact same, except he had short blonde hair and all the girls swooned over him. Yes, I was dating the boy all the middle school girls wanted…and I was scared to death of kissing. I worked my way out of that situation ALMOST every time.

There was a group of girls. These were the same girls that brought curling irons and hair dryers to school to fix their hair after they sat on the benches in gym class. Oh gym class…I would hide in the bathroom to change because I wasn’t ready for a bra. Still not!

I heard rumors how they all had devised ways to get him to be with other girls, a couple that I know of. I mean, SHIT, why should I be dating the most popular boy in school??

I didn’t even brush my hair!

Yep, little ol’ me. I brushed it in the morning and went about my day. By the end of the day, it looked a little stringy but it’s not like any of my real friends (boys) were like, “Hey Ellen, you should really brush your hair!” I got comments like, “you should learn to play the guitar” or “we should start a band” or “lets write some lyrics” or “i made you this mix tape”.

This is a very vivid memory and development point for me. Since that moment, I did everything I could to break out of the mold. To go against what was expected of me.

In high school, my parents started letting me spend the night at one of my guy friend’s house. Yep. Pretty awesome mom. The worst thing that ever happened there was probably too much beers or one of my friends lighting his, um, gas on fire. It would be me and generally 4-6 of my guy friends. Completely platonic and hilarious.

Senior year in high school. A lot of guys and friends thought it would be awesome to nominate me, the Tomboy Art Grrl, for Homecoming Queen. Yep. Well, I made it to the top 5 and they had to have a re-vote because there could only be 4. Either way, I could see light at the end of the tunnel…people were beginning to see people for who they are and not what they look like or what type of stereotype they fit in. (I remember there being some angry mothers who’s daughter didn’t make it to the top 5 – oh – get over it already!)

I’m going to own up and say that there were moments I wasn’t nice to people in high school. It’s all a defense mechanism and I’ve found these people and tried to make amends for my stupid behavior.

Now, I do love more feminine things. But, I laugh sometimes on tour. I think about how my last hair cut was a year ago. The smell of “vinegar/musk/lamb/man coming from my armpits…brushing my hair once a day and putting it back in a simple braid. The grooming of eyebrows and bleaching of the mustache is not tended to either. How about my weekly shower, or my record of 21 days without. Or how about riding a bus through Tibet with a police escort and knowing I have my own vomit and diarrhea all over my pant legs.

I wonder what those bullies are doing with their days…probably passing it down to their young daughters – as they wake them at 6 am so they can curl their hair for school. Gotta keep the hate in a vicious cycle.

So you know, thank you bullies…you girls…for making my life hell and only making me a much stronger, beautiful, and independent WOMAN! And much love to my real friends that have always supported and loved me no matter what – no matter what I wore or how awful my first steps into make-up were.

This is my story for the day. Peace, dudes!

(If you want to know what I looked like growing up…imagine “Blossom” and “Ellen” from “Pete and Pete” – it’s pretty much it)

I would love to hear from you!