Kashgar

28 Apr 2012
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Day 3: Kashgar to Sary-Tash (with NESW by Bike)

Sticky Post By On April 28, 2012 With 2 Comments

March 27th 2012

We had to end early on Day 2 because Matt had fallen through the snow and had soaking wet feet. The road was flooded out and all bikes had to be pushed off road through about 2′ of snow. Matt going first, he fell into the water under and Lucas and I managed to just take a little dip.

Saving time and reserving some warmth in the tent, we all cuddled up in the boys tents. Oh god, the smell…never, in my life. We didn’t sleep very well…sardines in a cold stinky can.

But then morning arrives…

Poor Matt, is still ill. The boys spent a half an hour digging the stakes out of the ground and I spent the time digging my poor stove out of the frozen sand. Sucked.

This will be the last of tarmac…for a very very very long time.

We head on and it’s freezing. All the water from the day before is frozen. I cross the ice first, bust my…um…lady parts on my top tube. I alert the boys to what I’ve done…after I crawl out from under my bike and across the ice.

Then…not 15 minutes later as I’m pushing across some more ice, I slip and smack down on both knees. I’ll feel that for days…more like a week. ‘F you ice!

Turned out the be the wrong way, so we are fortunate enough to turn around and go back over the ice. This time I don’t bust my vah-gine.

My favorite part of the day…break time. And look at me…showing off my Spanish skills! Oh, sister…paleeeeeeeeeeese…shut up! I’m eating these jelly orange slices (candy) that Brandon and I were addicted to last summer. The brothers didn’t love them as much as I (and Brandon) do.

We finish up the day having good fun.

Then trying to find supplies in this shit hole of a town. Where this local tries to rip us off letting us sleep in his extra room. Instead, we go back to the restaurant for an extra bowl of noodles and set up camp in the dark on the the outskirts of town.

Riding solo has advantages, so does as a team. I work more when I’m solo…I laugh more when I’m with others. Perhaps stay a bit more sane with company too.

13 Apr 2012
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March 25, 2012 – Day 1 of Kashgar to Sary-Tash

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The newly united, and temporary, Team Windbraker Carrots.
Left to Right, “Captain”, “Supervisor”, and “Auntie” (later to be renamed to “Ice Face”).

It was a short, uneventful day. The roads in good condition and friendly folks along the way. We began the steady incline to the border.

I think one of the greatest things about being a cyclo (a person who uses a bike to tour/travel) is the fellow cyclos you meet. I’ve made so many friends from all over the world. After spending nearly 2 weeks with the Belgium brothers, I’ve come to love Brussels and have learned A LOT about Belgium. Granted, I already knew about the beer…but the price is nothing compared to those swank beer boutiques in NYC.

They would tell me about Belgium and ask me questions about the States. A lot of the info taken from movies and pop culture. It was good to have to opportunity to state Hollywood is a bunch of bullshit. Sharing cultures is amazing when traveling by 2 wheels.

Now I have 2 new little brothers and a home in Brussels! How rad…if I don’t say so myself.

The friends you make touring will last a lifetime. Also, you may even learn another language and culture. “merci gaste!”

20 Mar 2012
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Arrival to Kashgar

Sticky Post By On March 20, 2012 With 6 Comments

Last 50km into Kashgar was fantastic, hundreds of donkey carts, horses, and of course, the few camels. You can see these majestic beasts a half a kilometer away, their hair swaying back and forth.

18 Mar 2012
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Paper Airplane

Sticky Post By On March 18, 2012 With No Comments

Honestly, I feel as if I haven’t been taking enough photos. Today I went to the market and didn’t even make it across the street before chatting with a 32 Uyghur man in English. Our conversation was about politics and religion and lasted for about an hour. We are meeting for lunch tomorrow.

While we were talking, a Uyghur woman approached who could speak Chinese. She’s a modern woman with no head scarf and I even noticed a small tattoo on her hand. She took me eat somsas (spelling?) and then we walked around teaching each other language. She must be in her 50’s or so, but it was lovely. She bought me a little bag of popcorn.

Not successful with photos today, or too many in the past 5 days. I’m reminding myself that without fixers, I need to dedicate time to making my local contacts. It’s part of the work that HAS to be done. My phone book now has 3 local numbers, along with a friend in Xi’An that is helping arrange his friends to meet with me.

Last night, I was walking around, and I saw a side of young and hip Kashgar. Young boys with slick hair riding on scooters and young ladies squeezed into skinny jeans, face made up, and no head scarves. The night life here must be interesting…I need to make some modern friends.

Speaking of “modern”. Alim’s mother wants to show me how to “cover” and pray. Wow…how deep do I want to go down this road. He asked me how I could believe in Evolution? I even noticed him getting a smidge angry about it. Between the language barrier and the religion, this really is a topic that should not be discussed. I believe what I do and religion will never sway me from scientific facts. Sorry Alim, I can’t change my convictions, as you can’t yours…but I will respect them.

Spending time with the family I’m beginning to see deeper in. There is a wealthy uncle, that married into the family, and I’ve seen him twice. Every time he slugs Alim in the chest…and hard! There is no warning. I hear the thud, and turn away, only to peek at Alim’s face and he struggles to hold back the face of pain. I can hear him make noises while holding it back.

I believe Alim’s brother is autistic. Watching him fumble around on my computer and watching interactions, that’s my opinion. Uncle will do it to him too, but not so hard.

Macho macho macho…Alim’s father is not like this at all.

When Uncle arrived to the house, I watched Older Sister whisper to a woman that had come to visit. As a woman, and someone that has to rely on body language, I understood that she isn’t too fond of him. If it were American women, there would of probably been eye rolling.

Uncle speaks very loudly, he’s the only man there, and I can tell it’s expected to listen. Before he arrived, I also noticed Alim can at times, be a bit aggressive and bossy towards women.

16 Mar 2012
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Family at Dinner Time

Sticky Post By On March 16, 2012 With 2 Comments

The little girl was so excited to find out I could speak Chinese so we were able to communicate. She’s 13 and her older sister is 16, who can also speak.

There were 3 languages being spoken in the home last night…my head was spinning as I can only follow two closely.

The older brother, next to the girl with the hat has a disability and he is listening to an electronic device that reads the Koran.

Alim, is sitting to his left, next to his father, showing me his English study materials and a photo of when he was studying English in Urumqi.

The older sister is preparing noodles for “la mian” – pulled/beaten noodles.

Mother doesn’t like her photo to be taken but you can see her for a moment adding to the fire.

I tell them to talk in Mandarin. They begin in Uyghur but it changes to Mandarin. Their Mandarin is a little different from mine so it takes a minute to catch on to the questions.

We are discussing what we like to eat and if America has naan and lamb to eat.

I would love to hear from you!

Studio Address: Front Street Artist Studios

 

 

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