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The Photographer’s Life is Far From Bunnies, Flowers, and Unicorns.

It was once brought to my attention that I don’t discuss photography and photographs enough on this blog. I would probably agree with that comment but I also have a half dozen other places where you can see the images. Although, most forums do not allow for detailed stories, techniques, or other things.

I guess a part of me wants to keep some of my magic a secret; not like photography is a mystery. Years ago, before this trip, I was also told that I am “too timid” to get those street shots and portraits that I now have. That I need to “go in like gang busters” and don’t care if they get upset. Well, this is not how I work and never will be. My tippy toe, sweet smile, and gentle demeanor is what has gotten me where I am, right now.

There is more to these people’s stories than a still image; a moment caught in time. You’ve probably caught on that I spend a lot of time, if possible, with the people I photograph. I talk to them as much as possible and I sit back and wait for the time to pull out the camera. There is a method and I’m not going to spill it for free, here. People often ask me how I get some of the intimate portraits and I guess it’s something that sets me apart from the millions of tourists snapping off thousands and thousands of photos on vacation in hopes for that one million dollar winner they will submit to some National Geographic contest.

There is so much that goes on behind the scenes that will never been seen, documented, or really discussed. When looking at my photos you may not realize my interaction and experience within the moment.

When I was watching a mud house being made in Yunnan, within 15 minutes the two dozen women had convinced me (not very difficult) to climb the ladder and help pack down the dirt for the exterior walls. Of course I didn’t take the camera up there with me, I left it on the ground and lived in the moment; I attempted to live the life they lead.

Living with the Uyghurs, there were days I would go out to the cotton fields with them and pick next to the family of four. Sitting on the edge of the cotton fields eating naan and pears while the women rubbed my arms and hands from all the open cuts on my hands and arms. In the evening all of us sitting around for dinner, absolutely exhausted after a full day of back breaking work. I am not a leach of a photographer, I try to give as much in return as possible. Whether it’s labor, English tutoring, or sending a package of medicine to aching gramma.

Taking walks to a stupa in Tibet, holding a little girl’s hand for nearly a mile as we walked near the shores of Lake Namu. One of the most intimate moments I have shared with anyone over the past few years, one moment that nearly brought tears to my eyes.

Going to markets with families and helping carry items home and keeping an eye on the children. Assisting in the picking out of fabrics for a new pillow and choosing the perfect amount of camel fur to be stuffed in the bedding.

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I am not just a photographer, I am not just a cyclist, I am not just Eleanor. I am “Ai Lun” or “Ai Gul”, as I’m known in other parts of the world. I am a storyteller, I am the voice of those that I have captured in an intimate moment. I am an entity that can travel within borders and boundaries unnoticed, gathering as much information as possible. My experience is so much more than mileage, altitudes, and photographs. I feel as I’ve lived a dozen different lives over the past 3 years.

This month marks the 3 year anniversary of the beginning of my trip. These months home has allowed me to dig deeper and have realizations about the life of a photographer. A recent email from a photographer I highly admire commented on how I am so open about the pains, struggles, and the tragic loneliness of a photographer. We’ve all met those photographers that seem to be so confident, so Alpha, so have their shit together…you know the joke rings a bit true about there is “only one photographer allowed in a room at a time”. I’m learning that these guys are not of the majority, or at least the type I like to hang with. Although I met many more like these when living in NYC.

Although, Brooks, if you are reading this, it was such a breath of fresh air to know you aren’t like the majority either. It was such a pleasure meeting you and talking shop (2 wheels and photography).

What I want to express is that my chosen profession, although it’s hard to call something I love so much, is not what it may seem. This is not to be a boo hoo story of any sorts, but I want to share what goes into being a photographer, or a creative.

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Firstly, I’m realizing that photographers (and a majority of other creatives) all have this disconnected sense from the world. Returning home, I have a few new friend photographers and some old. These people are the ones that I think, right now, offer the most of what I need emotionally and mentally. We all know how it is; often it can’t be expressed but the constant requirement of solitude is seen in our photographs. When we take the camera down from our eyes we can see within each other the long lonely path we have all chosen to get where we are.

Photographers are a lonely, secluded, lot of outcasts. I have yet to meet another that isn’t somewhat socially awkward in his or her own sense. But it’s what makes us an awesome bunch, all our little strange quirks. We are the ones that can appreciate it in one another.

Of course there is the constant commiseration of never having enough money to purchase new equipment. For many of you that don’t know, there are rental houses in NYC and all over the world that cater to us. The working class photographer. I don’t know how many times my equipment has been snubbed by high dollar flash packers carrying the best equipment around on their grand tour. They are not professionals, but their 6 figure income can afford the luxuries that us photographers salivate about some day attaining.

So, as you can see, my life as a loner has no separation from my work, social, and personal life. I work alone, I live alone, I rest alone.

Secondly, don’t you think the camera is a way for a photographer to separate themselves from the actual moment, the people, the experience? Again, symbolism for being disconnected, an outsider. We are always on the rim of the experience, hoping to blend in and not to distract our actors of the story we are documenting. It’s a fine and delicate dance and many people can’t do this.

The files, or film, are taken home and we spend hours and hours alone editing, and re-editing. If we are lucky enough to have a strong body of work we then begin submission. Hours spent researching contacts and countless emails. Hopefully you’ll have 1/10 respond with some sort of interest in seeing more. It’s emotionally draining, as you send your images out, that incorporate your heart and soul – to only be rejected.

I have always had an idea of the lonely life of an artist or photographer but it hasn’t been until the last months that I’ve really been able to culminate these thoughts and realizations into words.

These days I find myself grappling with the fact that this may be my route for the rest of my existence. I am a huntress and like all good hunters, the task must be tackled alone. Can this be possible? Can I continue through with disregard for my emotional and mental need for companionship, friendships, family?

There is the post tour depression, I’m not going to lie one damn bit to you about it. I’ve slept the entire weekend away and now I feel like I just popped out of it at 4 am on Monday morning. Friends tell me, “How can you be depressed, look at what you have! Look what you have done!”

Do you remember in my interview when I talked about when I came “home” I saw how much shit is in our lives here and how “little we have”. By comparison to these people with nothing and their lives seem so complete as they have something that majority of us in the West don’t have. Something that has been lost in our culture and society. It’s hard for me not to sit here, typing, editing, drinking my tea seeing what I don’t have. It will be worse when I go back to Shanghai. No friends, no family, no lover, no real community.

I’ve tried to convince myself for years that I can live, survive, and be content without the previous mentioned. That my heart can deal with the solitude and the loneliness. But these sleepless nights, with my pillows wrapped around me and a death grip around my teddy bear…I begin to doubt my strength to continue on, alone.

The goal for the remainder of the year is to find a sweet balance, in everything.

Are you tired of hearing about the loneliness yet? Well, no one really writes about it, and too many blogs stop after the riding. For you all looking for my cycling stories, I left off on the Assey Plateau in Kazakhstan – which will be the one year anniversary next week. We are going to get back on track with a cycling post!

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I thought I’d share a story about the below photo, as I edit some images of Central Asia.
There was a small village that I stayed at for two days in Uzbekistan, near the Tajikistan border. This man dancing in front of the camera was one of those men I despise being around. The first conversation developed around my personal life and he asked me if I had a disease and if that is why I was child’less.

Of course it’s a common question, but only out there would men be so rude and nasty to me about it. What if I did have a disease, what if I can’t conceive…what does he care…he needed to ask this question in front of other men.

This story isn’t so unrelated to the current post. An outcast; disconnected; a stranger.

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I’ll slowly begin to transform this blog into stories with images, perhaps one photograph and my inner ramblings.

Uighur work published online in The Atlantic

CLICK HERE to be directed to The Atlantic

Three years ago I set out on a journey and exploration of myself and China. Now I sit here, seeing the greater purpose of my life, direction, and vision. It was never just a bike ride for me…it was something so much more.

Feeling Lesser Than A Woman (Does that mean I’m a man?)

Oh dear God, Allah, Buddha…it’s been ages since I’ve sat down and pecked out my thoughts to share with you and you and you and you and you.

Here I am, sitting in Dayton, Ohio listening to some modern folk, alt-country rock and sipping my herbal tea with soy milk…my stress at an all time high (unable to sleep and eat) and my back in constant pain. Okay…okay…okay…here we go. Are you ready?

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Like I’ve stated here before, “I’m more woman than you could handle.” I know this simple fact about me, but here in the other “real world” when I’m sitting here alone in my room behind a flickering computer screen hoping for a loving transmission from anyone…the doubt creeps in faster than the cold into my feet on the Tibetan plateau.

Don’t get me wrong, I have no desire to go on a date. I have no desire to have to do all that relationship stuff because I just don’t have time or the energy for it. Everything in my life, I have made or chosen, is difficult and love is one thing I feel like I shouldn’t have to work so hard at. Frankly, because, well I deserve it…damn it! (To be quite honest, I’m not yet over something of the past.)

Okay, I’m trying to keep this cohesive and lucid, before I run off the rails.

I do NOT have “balls”. –edit- Perhaps this just comes with being in a territory that is predominately men. My hair has come up in conversation close to a dozen times and I really doubt men have these types of comments made to them. For the record, I do not shave my armpits or leg hair…so men make comments about this and sometimes it goes further. I’m realizing that the people who make these comments to me are making cheap shots because I threaten their masculinity. Such a pity. Such a pity that a human life form that has a frailer bone structure, less muscle mass (generally), can conceive and birth life form, has a higher thresh hold for pain, and generally better at endurance challenge your XY chromosome. -edit-

This is not to be a men bashing post at all because some of the worst bullying I’ve received in my life was from female peers. Also, I want to state that all the men I’ve traveled with were always decent. Most of the men I’ve crossed paths with on two wheels have been, there are a few rotten ones I have encountered…or maybe it was over inflated egos.

I was a “tomboy”. The only girl in a neighborhood of boys. The baseball was hit further, the tree was climbed higher, and the punches thrown harder. When I got tired of being the “nurse” when playing “war” or having to tend to the fort while the boys were out hunting and gathering…I would retreat to my room and play Barbie’s – ALONE. Once a week I would attend Girl Scouts and my dance classes that went on for about eight years – the one thing in my life I regret giving up. I wasn’t all boy, I was still a girl…with long stringy tangly brown hair.

There is a memory of getting ready for my First Communion and I remember looking at my knees. They looked horrible…scabs, cuts, bruises continuing all the way down the calves. Of course I couldn’t remember how I got them, of course outside having fun as any normal child would. My mom told me it was nothing but I remember looking at other girl’s legs and they didn’t look like mine. I knew I was different from a very young age, and it’s been a battle every day.

The internet personality, the Wander Cyclist, probably appears cute and confident. You may think that I was a pretty popular girl growing up. “Popular” if you mean teased and gossiped about. If you mean not getting invited to slumber parties, and later on “make out” parties. I always had the pretty friend (or “easy”), where I was left in the shadow. Ellen of yesteryear was terribly awkward and “different”. A very small southern town in Virginia, I always knew I didn’t belong with the masses. With the gangs. With the others.

Maybe the reason I’m so “tough” now, why I can handle what I’ve put myself through is because growing up was far from “easy” and “comfortable”.

Gender roles. This is what I’m trying to get to. Defining attributes, physical, mental, and emotional.

It’s 2013 and I’ve been reading articles on the internet and following some popular culture. What is with all this women bashing.? I’m also talking about women bashing other women, i.e. a woman stating that a cheerleader was too chunky to be cheering. What is wrong with us, WOMEN?! Damn it, you and I have it hard enough and then we go around criticizing one another for their body type and what we’ve chosen to cover it with.

Why is that the only thing a woman has to offer society is her looks?

Just go take a gander at any modern man’s magazine and look at the imagery of women. That is not real! Real women do not look like that. Real women have something so much more to offer. Real women are mother’s taking care of their children, with extra weight and perhaps stretch marks. Real women are the ones in politics fighting for justice, using their brains. Real women are those that are on the front lines in our military. Real women are the ones that live for themselves, that better themselves, that have something more to offer this world than a good pair of perky tits and a slim waist.

I recently watched the first two minutes from a comedian, Miss Marbles, and she was ranting about the people she hates at the airport. She spent two whole minutes explaining how she doesn’t trust girls who can travel with only a backpack. “What kind of girl are YOU?” I’m watching her overly made up face, and coiffed hair to have a “messy” look ramble on about how her makeup takes up a certain amount of space. I don’t know Miss Marbles, what kind of girl AM I? Yes, I do wear makeup…stick of eyeliner, mascara, one eye shadow, and maybe a lipstick or two. Simple. Yes. Hey, and get this…I love wearing dresses too. One major reason is because I have difficulty with pants because of my cycling legs. What kind of girl AM I? I’m a girl that wears sports bras all the time because wires jabbing into my rib cage are uncomfortable and only to give perky breasts for the benefit of WHO?

Am I a woman?

Well, I’m beginning to think I’m not by the standards that are sent through the media. That I may never be. I honestly should quit spending time on this question because I know something most people will never know. I know me. I know who I am, what I stand for…I can spend days and days with only myself. No fear of what I may learn or realize. Comfort with who I am.

This isn’t so cycling and tour related, or even photography related but I really felt like some things needed to be stated.

I do think my tour took some characteristics away from me that are usually deemed “female”. OR…or…MAYBE, JUST MAYBE…I never had them to begin with and my struggles pre-tour was more about trying to fit into what was expected of an XX human.

Maybe we are all a blank slate and we become conditioned by media, friends, and family to fit into a certain gender mold. I know that straight men who may be seen to have female characteristics have it much more difficult than us straight females. So, to conclude this post I’d like to ask all of you to do a simple challenge is to drop the definitions, to quit being a “man” or a “woman” and just be you.

With these conclusions, I do know that when I’m ready for love it will not be a man and a woman, a boyfriend and a girlfriend, but two completely equal human beings. Undefined. The other will not define the other. The relationship will not define anyone’s worthiness. Each will be a protector. Each will be a provider. Each our own. The most important, the respect of each other’s solitude.

Well folks, I’m not sure how this went but I hope you can take something from it. Mostly, I hope some little odd ball girl stumbles across this post and realizes she is far from alone. That the whole wide world is out there, waiting for her. That she has the courage to do it alone…and it’s best that way.

Men make comments about how there are few women like me out there in the world. Well, I’ll tell you this, by the amount of private emails and notes I know for a fact a lot more of us exist. But, it’s a fact we are more difficult to find and even more difficult to catch. You’ll find us tucked away in bookstores, on a lonely trail, in a tent on a plateau, in an NGO office in some far off country, or as simple as standing alone in the grocery with a frozen pizza under one arm and debating over which micro brew to indulge in for the evening.

Don’t forget about the Etsy store. I’m trying to raise funds for my big move back to Shanghai and unfortunately things aren’t going so smooth. I ACTUALLY cried last night. I thought I couldn’t do that anymore…I’m trying to soften up. The life on a road has toughened me up, perhaps too much. A boy nicknamed me “Ice Princess” in my early twenties…and I guess it’s just gotten colder since then. But we all know that usually the people with that thick and cold exterior are often the softest, warmest, and most loving under it all.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/MosemanPhotography

Also, my website is under construction, 4 portfolios up now. Go check it if you’d like to kill some time today. Ah, yes, and the book for the Kickstarter rewards is in progress, and additional will be for sale.

I’d love to write more, but maybe I should save some stuff for that book I’m supposed to write someday.

A Q & A with Paul of “Going Solo”

You can read the post here: CLICK ME TO OPEN INTERVIEW

Who are you?

I’m Eleanor Moseman and an American that grew up in the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. For the past 4 years I’ve been living, working as a photographer, and using a bicycle to explore Asia, most specifically, China.

What or who inspired you to leave “normality” in society as many know to live life on a bicycle?

Eleanor – Honestly, it’s hard to recollect those moments. I know my boyfriend at the time put the first thought into my head and then the few times I traveled in China on a train or bus I would just get so frustrated that I couldn’t just stop and talk and experience the life. My childhood was always about exploring and seeing what kind of trouble I could get myself into. There is one long distance cyclist that I may consider my inspiration, but we’ve become more of equals, peers, and good internet buddies over the past 4 years. I’m not really a travel blog reader, I’m sorry all of you, but it’s true…I like to read books that have little to do with bicycles. I actually kind of hate talking about bicycles. Over the past few years, I declare I’m not a cyclist but just a gal that has chosen a bicycle as a way to get around.

Make and model of your bicycle used?

Eleanor – Didn’t you get my last response?! 😉 No, I love and adore my bicycle and I don’t know if I’ve ever felt such a love as I do with her. She goes by the name “Nellie Bly” and she is a predominantly purple Soma Saga. The folks at Soma were so gracious to give me a chance and let me take one of the greatest touring bikes ever made for a spin around Asia. All her components were chosen by myself, so she’s suited and tailored to me. I recently got her out of the shop, after 5 months, and big props to the Village Cyclery in Yellow Springs, Ohio…for really setting her up. Two and a half years and 15,000 miles, she’s finally perrrrrrrRRRRRrrrfect!

Why Asia?

Eleanor – I moved to Shanghai with my partner at the time. The first eight months were really tough for me emotionally and mentally, adapting to the expat life. Found myself very depressed and alone and needed something to focus on, and get me out, and really explore. I also studied Mandarin to add an extra reason to focus on China. My first visit to China in 2007 I was introduced to the minority of the Uyghurs, and ever since I’d been dreaming of going to the magical land of East Turkestan, otherwise known as Xinjiang.

How many miles/Km did you cycle?

Eleanor – Shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit…am I allowed to have a sailor’s mouth here? I go so slow…over approximately two year span of a tour, I only did about 15,000 miles and 6 countries. Most cyclists head from Europe and go East…I decided to go against the grain, the wind, and the setting sun and head West. Those other folks have it easy as the wind generally is coming from the NW and that damn setting sun. I was so stoked to finally hit the most Western point in Uzbekistan where I would finally turn back and head back East.

Out of the 7 countries you visited (Kazakhstan, China, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Mongolia, Taiwan, and Kyrgyzstan) which had the biggest impact on you?

Eleanor – I think the people of Tibet and East Turkestan had the greatest impact. When I left Tibet, not on my own accord, something had changed in me, in my soul. As a person. I can’t explain it but those that have experienced the life on the plateau know exactly what I mean. And for Xinjiang, I left that place having a better understanding of Muslims and finally felt like I’d accomplished something pretty spectacular as a photographer. It’s where my work really began to take on a life of it’s own…it’s also where I finally found my passion. It’s not on a bike, it’s behind a camera.

How did you cope with the isolation and loneliness? Was there ever a point in which you felt in danger?

Eleanor – This is such a common question, and it’s asked all the time. I think all of us who have chosen to travel alone, have lived a life where the feeling of “isolation” and “loneliness” is part of our structure, our being, our psyche. We wouldn’t have taken on these endeavors if there wasn’t something in us that wants these feelings. Are we masochists? I believe so. A lot of cyclists have friends meet up for a couple of weeks, or girlfriends meet them for brief vacations, or double/triple/quad up. I had one partner I met for two months, and after that split I usually turned down riding offers, although I would cycle with two Belgians in a blizzard, and a Swiss guy for three days before the Civil War broke out in Tajikistan.

I’m not sure if I ever really felt “lonely”. Sometimes I feel lonely in hostels…to be quite honest with you, the only time I feel loneliness is when I’m around other people. You, and I, and many of the other solo travelers are outcasts among a group of outcasts. We can’t really be defined or lumped into one group. A group of misfits, perhaps? And “bored” is not even in my vocabulary.
If I felt a tinge of loneliness creeping up, my most common solution was to find locals too. Either going into a shop and chatting or sitting on the side of the road where locals were and eventually someone would talk to me. That’s the great thing about being alone, it’s about the interaction with the world around you and no so much about the riding and traveling relationship with another person.

Also, living in China, with friends in Shanghai. Sometimes I would just text them or my mom in the US. Just to be grounded for a couple of minutes…to remind me there is another world that I belong to.

There are three points I’ve felt in danger. Two were sexual assaults, one being a police officer and the final was when I nearly drowned in a river in Tajikistan. This final story is being written up and should be published on Sidetracked in the next few months. I learned an amazing “War Cry” that I can’t really give on demand…towards the end I could squeeze it out of me but I really have to put in some power and bring some particular feelings and emotions to the surface…then I just let it wail! It usually sends them running, or quit launching rocks off cliffs at me.

Most memorable moment during your 2 year expedition?

Eleanor – When I knew it was finished. When the chatter in my head had ceased. When my heart became lighter, when I finally had learned to love myself. When the reflection in the mirror was finally becoming the woman I’d always dreamt of being.

Scariest moment of the trip?

Eleanor – My life flashing before my eyes as water is up to my armpits in a muddy river in Tajikistan, the bike finally loses it’s grip and it’s on top of me. Knowing that my parents will never see me again…and perhaps my body would never be seen either.

Is there a place you would recommend people to visit that they may have not heard of, and why?

Eleanor – I have secrets. But I highly recommend Xinjiang. So many people jump a train around that area because their 90 day Visas will expire. So they skip over the desert. I love the desert. I love plateaus. People have this fantasy of Tibet, but it’s not too far off from a desert either. I really think I was born to be a Bedouin on a bike.

If you could pitch your tent anywhere in the world right now where would it be?

Eleanor – Oh, that’s a good one. Right next to Amnyematchen, a Holy Mountain in Qinghai. Then I could wake up to the Tibetans doing their chants and prayers at sunrise…and peeking into my tent. Offering me Red Bulls and military snack bars (3500 calories a pack!).

Song of the trip?

Eleanor – HAHAHA…it’s a tie between M.I.A.’s “Paper Planes” or the Yeah Yeah Yeahs “Maps”. There is a video of me on YouTube of doing a dance up at about 3800m…I’m really a better dancer than that but, sheesh, I was worn and broken down.

Photography was a huge part of your trip, but if you had to pick between your bicycle or camera which would you choose?

Eleanor – Camera…because I’m known to hitch rides and throw a bike on a train if I need to get somewhere for photography purposes. I didn’t “break the rule” until after about a year and a half. I had some assholes scoff at me in Tajikistan, they had been on the road for just a few months…I wanted them to tour solo for the length I had and then we can sit down and chat about my “cheating”.

On your next cycling adventure if you could have someone cycle along side your for the day who would it be and why? Family, friend or celebrity.

Eleanor – To be honest…I don’t like to cycle with people. I know, that sounds really anti-social. But, I guess I’d either have my mom, because she had such a big part of this trip. She was my backbone, she sent me packages all over the world, she was the strong woman in my life that I could always count on. The second choice would probably be the riding partner I had around Kham, Tibet. It was a terrible parting of ways, and I would love to be able to make amends and say our “goodbyes” properly.

What and where is next for you?

Eleanor – I have a top secret adventure in the plans. I’m not sure if it will pan out. But before that I plan on buying a motorbike when I get back to China and spend some time with my Uyghur “family” and continuing on my photo work. I’m also thinking about another trip to Tajikistan and do the Pamirs, since the last time we got kicked out because of the fighting. Maybe a donkey or a motorbike, or push bike…or maybe walk?

Post adventure blues is a hard thing to get over once an amazing expedition comes to an end. How are you handling this? How do you find life in what most people consider the “real” world? I’ve personally never been the same after being alone with just myself and the open road, I find the real world very cluttered and very confusing. I miss the simplicity of everything I own in one backpack.

Eleanor – It’s been great coming back and selling almost everything I own. It’s liberating and also because it’s no longer me. I’ve changed, but those that really love me and appreciate me, love seeing the changes, the growth, the evolution. The flashbacks are beginning to subside, but I have my sleeping back with me on my bed and I usually look at a few photos a day from the trip. I can set up a photo and just stare at it for hours. Living in that moment. But I don’t like to live in the past, and that’s where the stress comes from. Trying to continue forward but longing for something of the past. I always relate to Alice returning from her fall down the Rabbit hole.

I don’t think I can consider this the “real” world. That wasn’t the “real” world either. The “real” world is whats inside of me, my soul, that shall remain undefinable I want no more labels, I want no more definitions. I want to continue on, in this REAL universe as me…something that is in all of us, that should leave oneself speechless when confronted with a question of “who are you?” It’s a feeling, a being, and if you don’t know what I’m talking about…then you haven’t begun to find your “real” world.

Top 5 bits of kit from the trip?

1- Nikon D700 with a wide angle lens

2- MP3 player, I like to sing a lot…and I really need something to drown out the sound of a donkey dying (which is my own singing voice).

3- First generation iPhone…yep…it’s just a phone. No apps…it’s been dropped about a bazillion times. Why upgrade to something fancy when this works just dandy.

4- bandana. I’ve used it for so many different things

5- my maps. You should see my maps. I use very detailed Chinese maps, written in Chinese, and I’ve highlighted my route. I love the pages where there are no roads and had to improvise my highlighted route. I would date and “X” the place where I set up camp. I would imagine that some of those pages might be worth something one day. They are priceless to me.

What advice would you give to someone wishing to follow in your foot steps?

Eleanor – Don’t follow me or anyone. Follow your heart and imagination…always keep searching for what you need and want from this life and tour.

“Therefore, dear Sir, love your solitude and try to sing out with the pain it causes you. For those who are near you are far away… and this shows that the space around you is beginning to grow vast…. be happy about your growth, in which of course you can’t take anyone with you, and be gentle with those who stay behind; be confident and calm in front of them and don’t torment them with your doubts and don’t frighten them with your faith or joy, which they wouldn’t be able to comprehend. Seek out some simple and true feeling of what you have in common with them, which doesn’t necessarily have to alter when you yourself change again and again; when you see them, love life in a form that is not your own and be indulgent toward those who are growing old, who are afraid of the aloneness that you trust…. and don’t expect any understanding; but believe in a love that is being stored up for you like an inheritance, and have faith that in this love there is a strength and a blessing so large that you can travel as far as you wish without having to step outside it.”
― Rainer Maria Rilke, Letters to a Young Poet

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Not only cyclists…

…but damn cool folks, and amazing artists.

Tailwinds on your next journey, Pete & Mary.

www.twoonfourwheels.com
www.peterroot.com
www.marythompson.co.uk

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/thailand/9874682/British-couple-killed-in-crash-on-world-cycling-tour.html

Happy Valentine’s Day

It’s been months since I’ve sat down to peck something out here, for you.

So, for all my fellow solo cyclists, adventurers, and those of you sitting at home behind your computer screen without the presence of another human…I send my love. Hopefully, you have found your fulfillment and “happiness” within yourself and aren’t longing for someone to be by your side. Maybe you are even like me, and find yourself hugging yourself to sleep every night…not “missing” anyone or anything.

If you are “lonely”, I have a cure for you. If you don’t “love” yourself, I have the perfect cure for that, too.

Go on a very, very, very, very long bike ride until you obsess over yourself and ONLY yourself. When you think about your life, and your wants, and your desires, and what you deserve from life. Quit caring so much, especially about other people. Care for ONLY you! People will tell you are selfish, and crazy, but YOU know you aren’t.

This very, very, very, very, long bike ride will cure you of your self-doubts and learn how to ward off boredom. Sometimes I get emails asking how I deal with boredom, and to be honest, I’m not sure if I have felt boredom since high school…sitting in class after being reprimanded for daydreaming out the window.

Some people I have told what my tour became about. Others have asked, “Can you sum up your tour?”.

Yes, I can…”I learned to love myself.” I care a whole bunch about myself, and about others, as you know if you have listened to my interview and browsed through my photos.

You want to know a little secret? The only times I have felt loneliness is around other people. In a large group, social gathering, or even a relationship. Those are the only times I’ve felt “lonely”. So to all of you, that are alone, rejoice in your freedom.

Rather than snarl and say sarcastic things to those lovers we see today…us folks, that choose to be alone, can give each other high fives for being “birds of a feather that” DON’T “flock together”.

Love.

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