May 6, 2012 WanderCyclist

Day 7: Kashgar to Sary-Tash (w/NESW by Bike) – March 31 2012

What the hell can I say?

Morning camp, Matt eating breakfast.

Beautiful view, of course.


The road you see above, that’s frozen ice with the track marks cut through. Cold water will run through the tracks, soaking our feet, and then everything re freezing.

The day started off well, along with the first 5 km or so…then it’s just worse and worse.

Because I travel solo, my load and gear weighs considerable more than the boys. We traded off our bikes every now and again to split up the power consumption. Chivalry IS NOT DEAD!

We do try and make the best of the situation.

But we are losing patience and beginning to grow extremely tired.

Truck drivers are continually giving us hand signs of “X” but also pulling over and giving us food. If they hadn’t given us an extra supply of food…we would of starved.

We got cookies, chocolates, breads, and even a can of tuna. We sat on the snow and stuffed our little bellies the best we could.

One truck offers to give us a lift, but everything would have to be placed on top of the truck cab. The trucks are all locked because of the border control.

We are absolutely beat. Absolutely exhausted. I think we may have made a whopping 30km today…and I…look absolutely shameful. Not many women, especially me, would share something like this online, on their blog…but sometimes…when I man demands to help you, you just accept. My load is probably close to 20kg heavier. Also, the size, height of handlebars, and set up makes my bike very difficult to push. The brothers hate my bike…I still love her. She’s just a real c*$t to push up iced roads.

Now, to make up for this, I have been cooking for the boys. My stove works better and as they rest in their tent after this hard, cold, and wet day…I get to work boiling water for food (my food, to get rid of my weight) and water to drink.

(I’ve been meeting a lot of mid 20 something fellas…and the nickname “Auntie” has been sticking well. I guess it’s better than a “crazy cat lady”…but I’m still quite fond of “Ice Face”. That’s the story from the next day, April 1st.)

After dinner I snuggle into my tent and have 5 pairs of soaking wet socks hanging from my tent.

What have we gotten ourselves into?!

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Comments (3)

  1. Courageous, brave woman! You are a model for women as well as many, many, if not all men!

    You are inspiring: at your lowest, we still look up at you!

  2. Daniel

    Tout ça est vraiment intéressant. Vous êtes une femme généreuse et courageuse.
    All this is very interesting. You are a generous and couragous woman. Thanks for sharing all this with us.
    Daniel from Montréal.

  3. Karin Cordry

    Your stamina is awesome! While i do bike around Europe, I wish I had had your example long ago. I am 72 now and don’t want to “do” mountain passes like this Irkeshtam Pass at this point but after seeing your reports will certainly be less wimpy about a little rain or a crummy camp site. Your candor, extensive and beautiful photos and insertion of ethnographic videos about the peoples you are among is totally engrossing. Thank you for going to the trouble of taking us homebunnies along on your ride.

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